Halfpom

Kuyenda

This morning en route back to Mfuwe Airport for our charter flight to Tafika, we stop in to make the acquaintance of Phil Berry (below left) & Babette Alfieri at Kuyenda. Phil is one of Zambia's most experienced guides and conducts the walking safaris at Kuyenda. 
The camp is a delightful, simple bush camp decorated with fabrics from Tribal Textiles, locally woven mats & interesting seed pods & feathers collected in the surrounding bush...simple, yet stylish - just like Babette herself... 
 
The 'rooms' are well spaced and have wonderful views over the plains...peace & quiet - just what the doctor ordered... 
 
  
And your safari shower....just because you are in the bush, doesn't mean you have to slum it.. 
I really NEED to go to these places by car...preferably something with a roof rack & a trailer...I see so many beautiful articles made by local craftsmen on my travels and I would dearly love to support them but unfortunately most things don't fit in hand luggage...one does one's best though! Take these gorgeous mats for instance...oh how, my hands itched...but I knew, no matter how creative I got with the packing, they just wouldn't fit in my suitcase...such a shame!!No, it's absolutely not SHOPPING.....it's supporting the local economy...

Chindeni & Kapamba

We arrive at Chindeni after dark so this photogenic camp has to wait until morning to unveil herself...my ankles have ballooned so I've excused myself from the morning walk & get to enjoy the camp... At Mfuwe Lodge the elephant matriach who has become famous for leading her family through the lodge reception to the wild mango trees beyond is called Wonky Tusk (one of her tusks lies at an odd angle except that now she has lost it completely so should actually be called One Tusk) so the group now have christened me Wonky Foot... 
 
 
I watch the walkers make their antlike approach to camp... 

 

 
While they've been away busy hands have laid the table for lunch, the fire has been lit - lunch is 'make your own' pizza.....supervised by Lawrence & today, for one day only, we may call him chef Lorenzo...a master of the pizza tucked away in the middle of the African bush..

 It was one of the nicest pizza's I've had in ages.... 
Our next port of call is Kapamba Camp & if we thought the tub at Old Mondoro was great, wait until you see the size of this one.....it surely is the grandaddy of all tubs...we were assured that we could use as much water as we needed as it all comes from the river and there is no shortage....

 
 
Check it out.....no second invitation necessary....pool party at ours! With the outlet pipe being 2 inches wide the tub was filled in no time at all.... We've been travelling in an open game viewing vehicle, which is great but it doesn't have air con so we do it the old fashioned way - a wet (very wet) kikoi around the shoulders.....voila....African air conditoning! We are actually sleeping under wet kikoi's at night too as it doesn't cool down that much after dark....temperatures in the mid 40's (degrees Celsuis) during the day - something frozen northerners can only dream of at the moment!!

Day 3 - South Luangwa National Park

A new day begins over the Zambezi.... 
We're up early to do a walking safari - it seems our problem child thinks he is going for a Sunday stroll in the Cotswolds and keeps on talking and leaving a wide gap between him & the next person (contrary to the guide's instructions) so all game in the vicinity vanishes leaving Levy no option but to discuss flora and scat...thanks! Oh, he doesn't seem to have brought any sunscreen either...

Just as we are about to leave the room we spot a procession moving at serious speed....boys will be boys and they're racing each other to the water.... 
 
Afterwards we head to Jeki airstrip to pick up our flight to Mfuwe & the South Luangwa National Park...& en route into the park we stop at an old favourite.....Tribal Textiles, a company that produces beautiful hand painted textiles (mostly with an African theme) which generates local employment and develops creative skills. Do stop and do their workshop tour if you can....it is a fascinating process. I'm pleased to see that it has expanded hugely since my last visit.

On the way to Chindeni Camp, our eagle eyed guide spotted this lot....so lovely and so rare these days. I'm very unlucky when it comes to sightings of one of my all time favourites, the wild dog / painted dog / Cape hunting dog. Whatever name you want to call it....in all my game drives I've only ever had one decent sighting....these are quite far away, resting up in a dry riverbed after a long day but I'll take what I can get....one has a radio collar so obviously part of a pack that is being monitored by the researchers. We observe for a while but need to get going as it is getting dark... 
 

Old Mondoro..

Old Mondoro is a simple bush camp and it grabbed the hearts of everyone....a beautiful setting, simple rooms with everything you needed and nothing you didn't...we were welcomed with a marvelous almond orange cake for tea....as you can see we're not shy & didn't hold back.. 
There are only four chalets (for want of a better word) in the camp so we had the place to ourselves...except for the elephants, of course! 'Mondoro' means lion in Shona but on our visit elephant was, once again, king of the jungle here.... 
 
 
One of the best things about the room was the super large bathtub which we filled with cold (..again a relative term) water, donned our bathing costumes and procceded to have a game viewing session from the bath tub....can't say I've stayed in many camps which offers a service like that...this is a view from our 'plunge pool'... 
And just so you don't think I'm telling porky pies (tl: cockney rhyming slang for lies) here are my fat feet - sorry it's tsetse fly country & the effects are already visible - on the edge of the pool....

 
All too soon & we have to leave our pool & make our way to the main area for our fishing trip...we're trying for tiger fish this afternoon....except that there's a problem...room nr 4 seems to be the venue for the afternoon session of the elephant convention... 
Our room is visible from the main area so the guys realised we had a problem and sent a vehicle to our assistance. We managed a fairly undignified exit via the veranda.... fortunately most camps are equipped with one of these to help calm shattered nerves & for other medicinal purposes..

Once on the boat, we had some good sightings from a different perspective of elephants enjoying and in some cases slightly annoyed at being disturbed during their afternoon bathing sessions... 
 
We managed to catch a 3 pounder (me) and an eight pound (Priscilla) tiger fish between us but for some reason didn't take any photo's so you'll just have to take my word for it - they practice a catch & release policy here... 

Day 2 : Elephant country...

There's nothing like a breakfast prepared over a camp fire to set you up for the day....bacon, eggs to order, oats porridge with a shot of Amarula.....as well as cereals, fruit & yoghurts... 
This morning I'm experiencing my first canoe trip on the Zambezi River....a bit scary after all the stories I have heard over the years....but I'll give it a go just because we're being guided by Paul Grobler, one of the most respected river guides on the Zambezi...Once we've slapped on the factor 50 sunscreen, as it's already seriously hot even at seven in the morning, & grabbed our hats we're ready to go... 
And true to his reputation Paul guided us carefully & safely down river through the pods of hippo - his knowledge & experience evident in every action... 
 
 
Grant calls this 'the Enchanted Forest' and it is easy to see why - there is a special light through the trees that gives the landscape a magical feel....seems he's also a fan of Enid Blyton!!

 
We stop further downstream for much needed liquid refreshment, then hop on board the 4x4 for a game drive back to camp..seriously there are elephants wherever you look....I have never seen so many congregated in one place. It is partly thanks to the time of year...it's HOT, end of the dry season and rain is expected any time now so the animals are travelling many miles a day in search of food & water. Throughout the country bets have been placed as to what date the first rain of the season is going to fall... 
 
Big ones, medium ones and teeny ones, still pink behing the ears, that were only born a week ago.... 
I suppose we should have guessed what the main attraction would be when we saw these on our beds.. 
In fact, we needn't have bothered going anywhere, we could've just sat on our veranda as they came to us....the camp is shaded by Acacia albida (winterthorn) trees which just happen to be an elephant's favourite food at this time of year... 
 
We had to radio for assistance midday as the path to the dining room was fraught with large grey obstacles enjoying their own lunch.....one very large bull calmly walked right up to the dining area daintily picking up all the winterthorn pods lying on the ground....causing a subdued frenzy of snapping by anyone who could lay their hands on a camera or any recording device!! I gather it is his party trick....Just before this photo was taken, I had been sitting on one of the sofas in the lounge area and he came within two metres of my perch - just calmly going about his business, both of us observing each other....me almost forgetting to breathe....amazing & very humbling!!

 
 After the excitment of lunch it is back on the boat agin for the 20 minute transfer to the Cumings' other camp in the Lower Zambezi NP, Old Mondoro. 
 

Retrospective...20 October

I'm off again....the bag is packed and weighs 14 kgs which is not bad for 10 nights and I've been collected at some ungodly hour for my flight at Cape Town International.....on my way to Lusaka, Zambia. The familiar little fizz of excitement in the pit of my stomach....new territory to explore.

At Lusaka, the Proflight representative is waiting airside to assist with immigration etc & all proceeds smoothly except one of the group has not made himself known to us. We eventually do track him down by process of elimination - I think he is going to be a problem child.....he hasn't bought US dollars before departure (as he was told to do) & now after scrambling around Lusaka Airport the smallest note he can lay his hands on is a 50 dollar note. TIP - when travelling you need lots of small denomination notes...USD 1, 5 & 10's mainly....the guys just don't have change for 50 USD when you are trying to pay for one departure tax costing USD 8....oh dear!!

En route to the Lower Zambezi I practice my aerial photography...little did I know that I'd get plenty of practice later in one of the most stunning locations...stay tuned - more on this later....our first glimpse of the mighty Zambezi River... 
Our first pod of hippo and a couple of elephants cooling down in the midday heat.. 
 
The aircraft touches down at Royal airstrip and we all pile out...identify which luggage is to go in which vehicle...I really love that red sand - so different from the Western Cape that it always gives me that holiday feeling... 
 
A 20 minute drive down to the river...let me tell you...it is HOT, HOT, HOT here at this time of the year...driving in an open vehicle feels like sitting in front of your fan assisted oven...the locals call October suicide month.....hmmmm!

It's a all relative but it feels slightly cooler on the water....Grant Cumings, our host & owner of Chiawa and Old Mondoro camps makes sure nobody dives in...probably not the best idea in a river teeming with crocs & hippo...but he's taking no chances.. 
It's so very beautiful here in the Lower Zambezi National Park with the escarpment in the background. The hippo's pop up for a closer look at the intruders in their territory..
 
And finally, home for the night.....Chiawa Camp.... 
Time for a quick drink and room orientation, before heading out on the first of many fantastic game drives.....a large pride of lion with active cubs and 2 leopards (amongst other things) to start us off and then hopping back on the boat for the transfer to dinner.....on a lantern lit island in the middle of the Zambezi..a magical end to our first day in Zambia.... 

more (uk) flutterby's

A beautiful buddleia bush (or more aptly named butterfly bush) on Carla's allotment....they love it.....a bumble bee sharing his flower with a stunning peacock butterfly.

And I think this is a comma butterfly.

All quite commonly seen on a summer's day in the UK but no less beautiful for that....I realise now that I NEED a macro lens...  

quintessentially english..

A photo taken overlooking the small village of Fenny Bentley after a day spent exploring the picturesque market town of Ashbourne in the Derbyshire dales in the Peak District....

 

Day Eight & chimp trekking..

This morning we are going chimp trekking - we're up early, have had a hearty breakfast and are waiting to hear if the trackers have managed to locate the chimps yet. Food is scarce at this time of year and the large M group has broken into smaller units and the chimps also move further up the mountain in their search for food - not great news for the unfit...

At last the trackers locate them and we hurry down to the boat, accompanied by our TANAPA guide and Lazaro, our guide from Mahale. The boat will take us to the spot closest to the chimps to cut the walking time...this is what we are facing...

 
There are a couple of rules for chimp trekking -

:: Long trousers, long sleeved shirts & comfortable walking shoes recommended

:: Do not wear any sunscreen, insect repellant or perfume

:: Keep drinking water

:: When near the chimps don a surgical mask to prevent the spread of diseases

:: No eating or drinking in the vicinity of the chimps

:: No flash photography

:: Fitness training advised as this is no walk in the park - take another look at those hills!!

As soon as you get into the forest the humidity level rachets up several notches - not to unbearable levels but you do start glowing as the pace is quite fast. The chimps move quickly in their search for food so we need to find them as soon as possible before they start their day.

 
At the start of the trek the trails are well defined but the higher we go the narrower these become until the guides are hacking paths through virgin bush which makes the going very slippery....we're quite high up now & you can see how thick the bush is..

We've been told to watch out for the buffalo bean....apparently it is the African equivalent of poison ivy and you don't want to go there...

Suddenly the atmosphere changes and we can hear the trackers communicating by simulating chimp calls and there, just when you think you can't go any further, there they are.....we have two individuals....a 46 year old chimp who has adopted an orphaned baby called Puffy...it is very difficult to see them or get a clear picture as the vegetation is so thick....a dark shape lying on the ground..

 
An arm grasping a branch....

 And finally we are rewarded with a face......how wonderful....

You're only allowed one hour before it's time to move on & let Puffy & her adoptive mother go about their day....

We're back in camp in time for a late lunch but I'm headed straight for the shower & a snoozelet to recharge my batteries....it is seriously tough going...

I surface about tea time and we decide the only thing we feel like doing this evening is another dhow cruise....maybe some fishing with simple little hand reels....the yellow belly were biting and we got a good haul of about six decent size fish...don't you just love Joyce's delighted smile as she catches the first fish of the day...

When we land back at camp we see that a beach barbeque is planned for tonight's meal...fabulous..a quick freshen up although the dress code here is quite casual...& then down to the bar on the point for drinks before dinner.......the chef has made sashimi from one of the fish we caught & served it with soy sauce, sesame seeds and a little pistachio green wasabi....absolutely delicious and you can't get fish any fresher than that...

 
 

Greystoke Mahale....a resounding yes!

So many people have asked me to name the ONE place that I would recommend above all others....it doesn't have to be the most fancy but the one that has made the most impression. I've never been able to give them a decisive answer. Now I realise why.....because I hadn't been there yet.....it is GREYSTOKE MAHALE......absolutely & without a doubt the nicest place I have ever had the pleasure of staying!!

This is my banda..nr 2..with a great view of the beach...the bowl of water at the entrance so you can wash the sand off your feet is a nice touch..and an incense stick & yoga mat should you wish to practise your asanas...

The bathroom complex at the rear of the banda with the dhow shower, its fluffy white towels (not terribly practical but there you go), the complimentary kikoi's for your use and the eco friendly soap, shampoo & conditioner.
 
After we had a shower & settled in, it is time for tea and a decision as to what to do for the rest of the afternoon....a sundowner dhow cruise is a popular choice....

When we get back I can see that my banda has already been turned down for the evening and the mosquito curtains drawn...more for privacy than to deter biting insects. There's nothing that bites here...no tsetse, no mosquito, no sand flies so I can relax my vigilance and not go around smothered in an inch of 'No Bite' which doesn't seem to work anyway...

 All is calm & peaceful.....