Halfpom

Onwards & upwards....

Andre does a neat little take off, flying around & then back over the encampment with our little friend making the plane wings waggle to say goodbye as we go over them...I fear that manoevre might have led to more palpitations....as we head inland towards Damaraland the landscape morphs once again.... 
 
 
 
Suddenly Paul seems to realise that we're heading straight for the ground and nervously asks if we're landing...yes, we are landing....in a canyon for a quick geology lesson....I knew Soil Science 101(Grondkunde for those Maties out there) from my varsity days would eventually come in handy.....Andre tells us that his brother, Bertus, is actually the geologist in the family but he's just being modest....I think he knows his stuff all right. 
 
Image: courtesy of Amanda Mitchell

We also get to see a couple of Welwitschia mirabilis plants up close...I find the adaptations that plants have made to cope with extreme desert conditions fascinating.....this one is even flowering although it is suffocatingly hot today & no water to be seen anywhere. They'll get their daily water requirements from the sea mists that roll in from the coast every night. 
We take off again bound for the camp at Kuidas in the Huab River Valley. The picture below is of the canyon we've just visited - if you look carefully you'll see our 'runway' down the middle of the  canyon.... 
 
The diversity in colours and landscape continues to amaze the further we fly into Damaraland... 
 
 
It seems we're landing in this ochre world..... 
Image: courtesy of Amanda Mitchell

Kuidas Camp is not far away & our transport comes barrelling across the open plains to meet us...everyone's eyes light up as they spot the roof seat....what fun..... 
 

Alpha Mike Yankee....

When we are least expecting it, Andre suddenly does a balletic manoevre over the wreck of the Winston and we land neatly on the beach.....I guess it's lunch time! We all unfold ourselves and step out on to the sand.....never have I had an experience like that....& clearly neither has a small boy who is running along & pulling his dad behind him to investigate. They are parked a little further up the beach fishing and the wee one is almost hyperventilating he is so excited....he can't believe a plane has just landed on the beach right next to him. Andre very kindly opens the door of the cockpit and let's him sit in the pilot seat & explains the function of the various levers etc....bless him! And if that little boy doesn't become a pilot when he grows up I'll eat my hat.....so sweet! Seriously, I think this rates as one of the coolest things that's happened to me as well.....so I can identify..

This will give me a chance to introduce you to Alpha Mike Yankee....otherwise known as AMY....our trusty little plane....isn't she just beautiful? 
Paul is very glad to be able to unfold his long body from the front seat....the rest of us are slightly shorter so we don't feel it as much....This photo gives you an idea of just how vast the spaces in Namibia are....there is nothing here for miles & miles.....can you imagine being shipwrecked on this coast with no food, water or shelter? I've read the account of the survivors of the Dunedin Star which went down not far from here & the rescue attempts...seriously challenging is all that needs to be said....
 
Lunch on the wing, anyone?? After lunch, we stretch our legs and explore a bit....that's the wreck of the Winston with the lovely AMY in the background....the Winston was an East German trawler & ran aground in 1970 due to thick fog about 2 miles south of the Ugab River mouth or 23 km north of Mile 108 (the camp sites are all numbered as you go up the coast - the higher the number the further north you are). She has slowly disintergrated over the years and all that is left of her today is parts of the engine block.  

And we are on the Skeleton Coast after all....couldn't find any really impressive whale vertebra so this will just have to do for now.... 

No, it's not lunch time yet....

We've a full tank and an empty bladder so we're off again.....goodbye Swakopmund... 
Just past Swakopmund we come across more salt pans & these artificial guano platforms..... 
 
 
 
Okay, that's it....no more salt pictures, I promise!

Next up is Wlotzkasbaken - that name really rolls off the tongue nicely....a strange little holiday town in the middle of nowhere featuring the ultimate in low maintenance holiday house gardening....there are some amazing lichen fields close by but we don't see them from up high.....I wonder who Wlotzka was? 
 
Just north of the town we fly over one of the more recent wrecks on this coast, a fishing trawler called the Zeila, that ran aground here in stormy seas in August 2008 after slipping free from her tow rope. Andre was telling us that the wrecks don't last long due to the punishing wave action along this coast...a couple of winters & they're finished...and It's relatively calm today..... 

All along the coast we come across little groups of fisherman trying their luck.... 
The next landmark is Cape Cross with it's massive Cape fur seal colony....I'm quite happy to be viewing it from up here today as it is VERY stinky down there...been there, done that.....
 

The salt works.....

We still haven't reached Walvis Bay yet....next up on the visual smorgasbord is the salt works....it starts off tamely enough but then turns into a riot of the most wonderful colours..... 
 
 
 
And finally we reach Walvis Bay....

No stopping for us though - it's onwards & upwards to Swakopmund for a fuel & pit stop.....en route we spot a group learning to dune board.....so we give them a buzz - just because we can... 
 
This is the coast road that follows the ocean up north - the last (& only) time I've driven this road was about 5 years ago....with Piers L'Estrange & Johnathan Wilson on our way to Damaraland...It was also the start of my love affair with the camera....thanks to Piers & the beauty of Namibia....I think both Jono & I purchased our first 'proper' digital cameras after this trip. Mine is a Nikon D80 and I love it....it is one of the best purchases I've ever made & has provided hours of entertainment...Still some spectacular dunes along this more developed stretch of the Skeleton Coast..... 

Pretty flamingo's......

All this before lunch on our first day.....what a day.....just before we come to Walvis Bay we pass over a lagoon with loads of flamingo's. As the plane climbs high above them and we see the most beautiful patterns emerging....

 
 
 

 

Skeleton Coast Safari....

One perfectly normal Wednesday morning when my Zambia suitcase was barely unpacked and the travel washing done & the ironing folded, another siren call landed in my inbox....would I like to do a flying safari up Namibia's famous Skeleton Coast....what a silly question....in two ticks I've reserved return flights to Windhoek, sorted out a nights accommodation at the lovely Olive Grove Guest House on either side of the flying safari and Windhoek airport transfers. On Friday morning at six thirty I'm all checked in & ready to fly....my luggage weighs just 8.9 kilos (a personal best) & is trussed up like a Christmas turkey due to the ministrations of chaps at the bag wrapping service!! Later that afternoon I meet up with two of my fellow passengers, Paul Steyn (based in Cape Town) & Amanda Mitchell (based in Harare), at the Olive Grove.

On Saturday, we have an early breakfast & then it's off to Windhoek's Eros Airport to meet our Skeleton Coast Safaris pilot & guide & Duane, the last member of the group. Introductions over, a last visit to the ladies, then the luggage is stowed in the plane & we plug ourselves into the communication system so we can all hear & speak to each other. Clearance from Eros tower and we are off on our big adventure across the desert.... 
Up front on the controls is Andre Schoeman, one of four Schoeman brothers who own & operate the company which was started by their father, Louw Schoeman....I've taken the back seat which I share with the coolbox so I've got both windows to take photo's from as I have a feeling this trip could lead to a marathon of picture taking....things are quite compact in the six seater plane.... We say goodbye to Windhoek - you only realise how large the city when you see it from the air set as it is amongst the hills so from the ground you never see the city all in one go.... 
We swing west and fly over the Khomas Hochland conservancy, an area with a combination of game / hunting & cattle farms... 
Slowly, what is to become the theme of this Namibian trip emerges....patterns.... 
The Hochland gradually gives way to the Kuiseb Canyon, one of the many linear oases that run in an east west direction linking the ocean with the interior. Andre tells us that the canyon, formed by the Kuiseb River, over many thousands of years was home to two German geologists - Henno Martin & Hermann Korn - for two years as they tried to avoid internment during the Second World War. Henno Martin wrote a book about their experiences called 'The Sheltering Desert' and I make a mental note to self to try and get hold of a copy on my return. It seems like pretty unforgiving terrain but we can see water in the river and some pools on the plains so there has been rain here recently.. 
 
Contrary to expectations, we do see quite a few small herds of zebra & springbok dotted out on the plains..And then suddenly the scenery below us changes....just like that....a definite boundary between two very different landscapes....the colour is amazing... 
Andre banks to give us one more look at the contrast... 
 
We are definitely over the dune fields now...waves & waves of them....every scene through the lens is a beautiful one....the finger keeps clicking....the dark streaks on the dunes is due to the iron ore that is lighter than the other elements in the dune....As we head towards the coast & Conception Bay the colour of the dunes gets lighter & lighter.... 
And then suddenly we hit the coast....beautiful aqua blue water and an isolated Cape fur seal colony... 
Andre turns on the wing so we get a good shot of the seals....it has to be said that this trip is not for those who struggle to keep their breakfast down on a car trip....I, however, am in my element & love, love, love it.... We come to our first wreck and Andre does a lovely little twirl over it so we get a birds eye view...Then we straighten out and head further up the coast....Paul is Africa Geographic magazine's Digimag (online version of AG but doesn't have the same content) editor...This short video featuring our trip is a preview of his full feature scheduled for the April edition of the digimag.' Looking forward to seeing the full version....even though I was there!

And this is my photo of the Langewande as we swooped in low to get an idea of how fast the plane was actually travelling.... More seals frolicking in the ice cold waters of the Benguela current.....
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

The final leg...

This morning we arrive at Kazungula border post...rows & rows of parked trucks & swarms of people all milling around in seemingly disorganised chaos patiently waiting to cross over to Botswana. But don't be fooled - there is a system....we follow the guide to a tiny room where Immigration officials are checking paperwork. Our problem child had only purchased a single entry visa - cost US$ 50 - and we are returning so he needs a double entry visa - cost US$ 80. He's hoping the guys won't spot it if he puts his passport in the middle of the pile.....wrong....that will be another US$ 50, thank you very much! There are two ferries operating across the river but we are going the quicker route by boat as we are being collected on the other side so don't need to wait for our vehicle to be transported across... 
A quick trip across the river, bags out the boat & back into a vehicle for the short ride to the immigration point where we check into Botswana. There are beautiful flamboyant (the name is so perfect) trees everywhere....makes you feel happy just looking at them... 
Then another drive to the exit point and we have to check out of Botswana again as our next destination is technically in Namibia...then we hop onto a boat on the Chobe for the short ride to the Namibian border post on Impalila Island. Out of the boat and walk up the hill, stepping into special dip for anthrax on the way up....

Priscilla has an American passport....the immigration official literally goes through every page of her 9o odd page passport...I can see her starting to look anxious but at last he stamps it & she's free to go. I step up..present an South African passport - he takes one look, tells me I have a pretty name & he is going to name his next daughter after me, stamps it & I'm free to go...I know my passport is valid etc etc but every time I go through a border post my heart starts pounding - so silly!

Back down the hill again, through the anthrax dip and onto the boat - phewww - all that in 45 degree heat..fortunately we've accomplished the hard bit and now time to relax, have a cool drink & enjoy the ride....The best thing about game viewing by boat is that you can get right up to the animals and you get the head shot...not the rear view! These buffalo's are totally unfazed & calmly continue munching as if there isn't a boat right under their noses...you can see Chobe National Park in the background.. 
We gently make our way down the river and in the distance our accommodation for the next 2 nights slowly reveals herself..... 
Ladies & gentlemen....the Zambezi Queen.... 
I'm fortunate to have one of the Master Suites - my cabin is the one at the front of the boat - just above the name...and this is what she looks like from the inside... 
My private little deck complete with loungers....I like it...I think I'll stay....

On the agenda for this afternoon is a game viewing cruise which will be a nice change from the vehicle or on foot....this is our sister boat from the Zambezi Queen... 
We're both taking a long look at this big mother of a crocodile....after seeing it thoughts of dangling any extremities in the water to cool off quickly vanish....not that you would anyway... 
The Chobe National Park has always been known for it's elephants and at sunset they are all making their way down to the river for a cooling dip & a drink... 
We are lucky enough to share our boat with Garth Thompson, a very well known (I hate to say legendary but people tend to go into raptures when his name is mentioned) guide from Zimbabwe...one of his hobbies is photography so there is a bit of banter between the Canon (Garth & Priscilla) & Nikon (Danica, Karen & I) factions. Thanks to Katie Dalrymple-Hamilton for the photo below. 
We spend a very pleasant afternoon exploring the river banks....funny to see the vehicles going on their game drives from this angle.. 
  

One of the slight negatives of this stretch of the Chobe is that it is within striking distance of Kasane, which means that it is accessible to large numbers of tourists on the so called 'booze cruises' although it does make for a good photo or two.....& this was one of the smaller boats...The following day we enjoy a surprisingly productive game drive in the Chobe National Park. We saw an amazing amount of game including a large herd of sable antelope, kudu, lots of ellies, lion, hippo, enormous herd of buffalo, Southern giraffe, warthogs and last but not least a group of three leopard tortoises. And lots of birds including African skimmers (one of my favourites and the bird that Wilderness Safaris uses on their logo which only makes sense when you see them flying), yellow billed storks, carmine bee eaters, a group of ghoulish maribou storks looking like undertakers and this very sweet family of Egyptian geese... 
During our game drive the heavens opened.....wonderful to see how all the naimals were enjoying one of the first downpours of the season....the Chobe NP is looking very dry & the elephants thin so let's hope it will be a good one... When we get back to the boat for lunch, the anchor is drawn up and we motor slowly down the Chobe to more isolated waters enjoying game viewing from up high - such a relaxing way to travel....there is also a small plunge pool so you can cool off during the heat of the day... 
We try our hands at tiger fishing once again but sadly no luck this time...so we work on our casting technique - for next time....

And then suddenly our time is up .....the next morning it is back to Livingstone Aiport - reversing the sequence through the Namibia, Botswana & Kazungula border posts again. Happily at the end of it all the very kind lady at the check in desk upgrades me to Business Class....I almost hugged her when I saw the seat number....3C!! 

Zikomo Kwambiri (tl: thank you very much) to Zambia for an amazing trip & new friends made!!

Up in the Air...

 

It's very early...05h00...the fire is already going and you can just see the tail end of the moon in the sky. We've been in Zambia over the waxing moon and the night landscape bathed in a silvery light is just beautiful & so bright that it is almost like day...no wonder it is called a hunter's moon...

But I digress....the reason we're up so early is that at 05h30 I'll be ticking another 'first' off my list....a flight on a microlight.....so excited....I love flying in case I haven't told you that already....After a hot drink, Carol & I walk down to the airstrip where she explains everything and we wait for John to land. John has a commercial pilot's licence as well as a licence for a microlight so I'm in very good hands. I would always check the credentials of any small aircraft pilot as there are a few cowboys out there and rather be safe than sorry...I've timed my take off to roughly coincide with the sunrise so hoping for a spectacular flight....as John rolls to a stop and turns the microlight, I pop on the helmet (with microphone so John & I can communicate during the flight) and hop on the co-pilot's seat behind & a little above John...and off we go.... 
Words fail me.....& I have to forget about all photographic rules & just take pictures....slightly difficult with the helmet and the cramped space...but here they are...the small brown dots are buffalo & the river is the Luangwa River.. 
Hippo trails to & from the river - they use the same pathways without fail & over the course of time form definite trails that all the animals use...aren't the patterns from the air amazing? 
We take a low fly past to see the animals drinking....they don't take a blind bit of notice of the giant noisy mosquito...they've obviously come know John and his dawn patrols well...Another thing I didn't expect are the layers of warm & cold air that are noticeable as we descend (much cooler) and then warmer as we ascend again.. 
And sunrise over the Luangwa River as I'd hoped....More buffalo's - John tells me that this is a massive herd - over a thousand strong... 
Below is a collage of pictures taken by various people...Priscilla Macy, Karin Bloem & Katie Dalrymple-Hamilton - many thanks for sharing, ladies! During her time in the air Katie saw 2 lionesses killing a baby warthog (or wartlets as they were renamed on this trip)...talk about lucky...(obviously not for the wartlet..may he rest in peace)!

      

All too soon it is over and my feet are back on terra firma...en route back to camp for breakfast we pass the camp vegetable garden. As Tafika is located just outside the park boundaries, they are able to grow most of their fresh fruit & vegetable requirements. The menu's here are really creative & Tafika Camp & Remote Africa in general gets our vote for 'Best Food on Tour'...delicious! 
While the others are having breakfast, Alex & I jump in a vehicle & drive the short distance to catch a glimpse of something that I've always heard about but never actually seen...& now I am in the right place at the right time of year...the carmine bee-eater colony. Unfortunately it is not the right time of day for photographs here as the hide faces the wrong way so you need a setting sun to get the best colours but even so....they have gorgeous plumage and great to see them en masse like this nesting in the river banks.... 
 
And here's John trying to sneak up on us...pretending to be a carmine bee-eater...nice try, John but you do stick out a bit.... 

Crocodile & Tafika

This morning we are walking back to Tafika....some 3 hours so I squeeze my cankles into my walking shoes. I keep catching people giving my feet covert glances wondering if I'm going to make it or if they're going to have to stretcher me out.....the guys at Chikoko have been wonderful....lots of hot water & salt baths and things are staring to look a little better....as with the heat....this is all relative.

Strangely enough although it looks bad, there is no pain so on I hobble....it is the end of the season here & the game is now used to pedestrians so they don't bolt at the sight of us... 
Although there has been no sign of rain yet, the trees are getting ready for the new growing season....they know that rain is just around the corner & some are putting on their spring show....this one had the most beautiful scent..a bit like jasmine.... 
The photo below is typical of the terrain between the camps....open dambos fringed with quite dense bush which could be harbouring any number of animals - most just chilling out in the shade..some thinking darker thoughts....but we won't dwell on that... 
When walking in the national parks in Zambia you are always accompanied by an armed scout as well as your guide from the camp....I've seen people freak out at the sight of the weapon but the park scouts are highly trained professionals - they have an exceptionally good knowledge of the area as well as the animals and they alternate between poaching patrols and the walking safaris....I've always felt I was in extremely good hands. Having the scout gives the guide the opportunity to concentrate on his (sometimes challenging) clients - answering questions, making sure his instructions are being obeyed, making sure clients are still mobile etc.

We made an early start this morning....06h00 but by 07h00 it was already baking so we were pleased to see Crocodile Camp....very well camouflaged, built by hand & seasonal just like Chikoko Camp... 
Crocodile Camp is different but the same as Chikoko...this time the colour theme is blues & greens and there will be no prizes for guessing who provided the fabrics or the mats... 
 
That hammock is calling - I can think of no better way to spend a lazy afternoon after a good morning walk & an excellent lunch....

After some very welcome refreshments & use of the facilities, we make our way to the river for the boat crossing & vehicle transfer to Tafika Camp where we are given a warm welcome by John & Carol Coppinger and Heather....I find the news of my infamous cankles has preceded me and another hot water & salt bath is immediately ordered so I can bathe my feet.....a nice rock shandy with extra rehydration salts (just for good measure) later and I'm feeling good.. Rock shandy has become my drink of choice in Zambia during the day....but come sundowner time I'm a creature of habit & switch to my other safari drink...gin & tonic with a touch of bitters...

 
 
I'm beginning to think that Remote Africa Safaris have cornered the market on the best hammocks and the positioning thereof...you couldn't get better than this....perfection... 
There is a hide built into the 'wall' around the camp & we spend a while looking out at the unsuspecting (or not) puku....stunning scenery even at the end of the dry season, no? 
There has been a big commotion going on down at the river for a while now so we grab our cameras and check it out....one male is trying to pick a fight....but the other guy is a 'lover not a fighter' & won't be drawn into battle....it does make for some good photo opportunities as I've been trying to get a hippo 'yawning' since the beginning of the trip with very little success.. 
This is a typical Luangwa river scene....imagine these two above bellowing in the background.. 
The sun is starting to sink in the west and it's time for the afternoon activity....there are only four mountain bikes, so the rest of us start off on the game drive & plan to rendezvouz with the cyclists later....John gives a briefing and makes all the volunteers do a practice ride around camp to see if they can actually ride a bicycle....important if you need to start pedalling for your life.... 
Here's my roomie, Danica, looking strong & flashing her red carpet smile for the papparazzi....you can just see our chalet behind her..Normally the chalets sleep a maximum of 2 adults & 2 children but in our chalet we are privileged to be the guests of a little black cat & her two daughters. The father of the girls is a wild cat of some sort so they are quite self sufficient & come the rainy season, disappear into the bush for 6 months. Mama prefers her home comforts in her old age (she is 16 years old apparently) and the shelf meant for the extra loo rolls is her favourite spot....too sweet....except Danica is allergic to cats....Just outside camp, we spot these two young ladies....wonder if the cyclists saw them on their way past...perhaps best not mention it......my, what BIG teeth you have.... 
Oh yes, she's definitely spotted us....there's no mistaking that look....I think she realised it's sundowner time and a tasty little snack to go with it might be a good idea.... 
We remove ourselves from temptation and a bit further on come across some kudu doing a splendid job of blending into the background... 
It's nearly dark when we spot the cyclists coming towards us.....one, two, three & four....all present & correct....phewwww..

 

 

Chikoko Camp

We're still in the South Luangwa but it's a big place so we have to charter up to Lukuzi airstrip....the plane is teeny & only takes 1 pilot + 3 passengers so we have to do a relay...the flight is only 15 minutes but it would take 2 hours to do this by road. We draw straws & I'm on the first trip...it is very dry here now but it won't take long after the first rains for the terrain to become emerald green.. 
A quick transfer by vehicle to our next mode of transport...no roads anymore...from here on in it is all by foot...so I've put a spanner in the works with my cankles & we have to take the short route to camp... We see a few hippo's & crocs downstream but we're old hands now & don't turn a hair... 
When I say everything gets taken in on foot...I mean EVERYTHING...this is a seasonal camp as most of Zambia turns to a black sticky quagmire when it rains due to the black cotton soil. These camps are erected (from scratch) every April & then dismantled every November.. There are no roads here at all.....this is prime walking country in the Nsefu sector of the park.

To get an idea of just what we are talking about, here is my home for the night at Chikoko Camp...all the items needed for the construction carried in....blood, sweat & tears, is all I'm going to say.....& perhaps a bit of praying that it doesn't rain before it gets taken out again. This is the ultimate in biodegradable camps.... 
My bathroom downstairs....the bedroom is upstairs & when I hear the commotion the baboons are making later that evening due to the unwelcome attentions of a leopard, I'm really glad I'm sleeping upstairs!! I did need the facilities during the night but I waited until the baboons were performing, then nipped down some (very) steep stairs with the aid of my solar torch (not very bright but fortunately it was full moon) as I figured Herr Leopard was otherwise occupied. UK Health & Safety would have a hernia if they could see those stairs... 
I'm sure a leopard could jump over those basins...not sure if they climb stairs..but there was a little gate at the top???

This is the view from the main area.....a peaceful scene with puku, impala and some zebra... 
One more thing...sorry, it's cake again....Patson made the most delicious marble (of sorts) cake for tea....he cooks all the meals over an open fire and a clay hole in the ground is his oven....I kid you not....& the man makes better cakes & bread than most people living with all the mod cons in first world countries... 
Here's Patson explaining how his clay oven works.....thanks to Priscilla Macy in Washington DC for the photo...yours truly didn't take her camera on the tour of the kitchen....big mistake.. 

And the rest of our meals were as delicious as the cake - thank you, Patson!