Carla & I both bought some double hollyhock seeds on one of our visits to the Malvern Spring Gardening Show and this is how they have turned out.....simply fabulous.. Mine (ahem) are still in storage & due to be unleashed on an unsuspecting public at a later date!!
And some close ups of them in all their frilly knickered gorgeousness.....
First up, apologies for the loooong absence but I have been here, there and everywhere in the last couple of months and only just able to draw a breath......
From the picture above, you'll be able to deduce that I've been in the northern hemisphere.....the UK to be specific. For a whole month....so there was no way I could miss visiting some wonderful allotments. It's a good time of year to visit - weather wise you have an average chance of decent weather....that's also why you go for a month...your chances increase the longer you stay....
It is also a brilliant time of year for anyone who loves gardening - every growing thing is doing it's level best to exceed expectations - you can literally hear the plants growing if you keep very quiet. The season is ahead of itself this year as I was invited to pick blackberries on Mac's allotment in the first week of August.....normally they only start making an appearance in September.
I think Mac has had his allotment for over 20 years....if not longer! His allotment is so prolific that neighbours (and the rest of the Ilkeston) start hiding when they see him bearing gifts of baby marrows, chard, beans, peas, raspberries etc. Trouble is, everyone else has the same glut as Mac..
I was only to happy to start the blackberry picking sesaon off and managed a fairly decent haul.....the only negative with this crop is the thorns but so worth the pain in the end..
We turned the blackberries, along with some apples, autumn raspberries (also early) and some strawberries into a crumble.....delicious...& then froze the rest to used at a later date. It is very satisfying being able to use homegrown produce..and free too! In fact, you're doing someone a favour by taking their surplus off their hands....so a win-win situation really!
I was ably assisted in my duties by Montagu Tucker who kept an eagle eye on the proceedings....boy, I've missed that cat! The rest of you too....but the cat, in particular!
And once all the hard work was complete it was time for a nap in the sunshine....sometimes all the excitement life has to offer is just too much for one cat to cope with....
When Vaughan celebrates, America celebrates with him.....happy, happy 40th birthday!! As the birthday boy is in New York proper for the big day we had to give him a little taster of what to expect the weekend before....no doubt America went slightly more OTT on the celebrations.....it's no more than he would expect (& deserves) really....
Did you spot the champagne lurking in the cooler?.....this man is a seriously bad influence.....fortunately I'd booked the Presidential suite at chez Barkhuizen & organised a late check out the next day...
This morning we are going chimp trekking - we're up early, have had a hearty breakfast and are waiting to hear if the trackers have managed to locate the chimps yet. Food is scarce at this time of year and the large M group has broken into smaller units and the chimps also move further up the mountain in their search for food - not great news for the unfit...
At last the trackers locate them and we hurry down to the boat, accompanied by our TANAPA guide and Lazaro, our guide from Mahale. The boat will take us to the spot closest to the chimps to cut the walking time...this is what we are facing...
There are a couple of rules for chimp trekking -
:: Long trousers, long sleeved shirts & comfortable walking shoes recommended
:: Do not wear any sunscreen, insect repellant or perfume
:: Keep drinking water
:: When near the chimps don a surgical mask to prevent the spread of diseases
:: No eating or drinking in the vicinity of the chimps
:: No flash photography
:: Fitness training advised as this is no walk in the park - take another look at those hills!!
As soon as you get into the forest the humidity level rachets up several notches - not to unbearable levels but you do start glowing as the pace is quite fast. The chimps move quickly in their search for food so we need to find them as soon as possible before they start their day.
At the start of the trek the trails are well defined but the higher we go the narrower these become until the guides are hacking paths through virgin bush which makes the going very slippery....we're quite high up now & you can see how thick the bush is..
We've been told to watch out for the buffalo bean....apparently it is the African equivalent of poison ivy and you don't want to go there...
Suddenly the atmosphere changes and we can hear the trackers communicating by simulating chimp calls and there, just when you think you can't go any further, there they are.....we have two individuals....a 46 year old chimp who has adopted an orphaned baby called Puffy...it is very difficult to see them or get a clear picture as the vegetation is so thick....a dark shape lying on the ground..
An arm grasping a branch....
And finally we are rewarded with a face......how wonderful....
You're only allowed one hour before it's time to move on & let Puffy & her adoptive mother go about their day....
We're back in camp in time for a late lunch but I'm headed straight for the shower & a snoozelet to recharge my batteries....it is seriously tough going...
I surface about tea time and we decide the only thing we feel like doing this evening is another dhow cruise....maybe some fishing with simple little hand reels....the yellow belly were biting and we got a good haul of about six decent size fish...don't you just love Joyce's delighted smile as she catches the first fish of the day...
When we land back at camp we see that a beach barbeque is planned for tonight's meal...fabulous..a quick freshen up although the dress code here is quite casual...& then down to the bar on the point for drinks before dinner.......the chef has made sashimi from one of the fish we caught & served it with soy sauce, sesame seeds and a little pistachio green wasabi....absolutely delicious and you can't get fish any fresher than that...
So many people have asked me to name the ONE place that I would recommend above all others....it doesn't have to be the most fancy but the one that has made the most impression. I've never been able to give them a decisive answer. Now I realise why.....because I hadn't been there yet.....it is GREYSTOKE MAHALE......absolutely & without a doubt the nicest place I have ever had the pleasure of staying!!
This is my banda..nr 2..with a great view of the beach...the bowl of water at the entrance so you can wash the sand off your feet is a nice touch..and an incense stick & yoga mat should you wish to practise your asanas...
The bathroom complex at the rear of the banda with the dhow shower, its fluffy white towels (not terribly practical but there you go), the complimentary kikoi's for your use and the eco friendly soap, shampoo & conditioner.
After we had a shower & settled in, it is time for tea and a decision as to what to do for the rest of the afternoon....a sundowner dhow cruise is a popular choice....
When we get back I can see that my banda has already been turned down for the evening and the mosquito curtains drawn...more for privacy than to deter biting insects. There's nothing that bites here...no tsetse, no mosquito, no sand flies so I can relax my vigilance and not go around smothered in an inch of 'No Bite' which doesn't seem to work anyway...
All is calm & peaceful.....
A few more views of Katavi NP before we say goodbye....
The flying time to Lake Tanganyika is only 45 minutes so a short hop today. The pilot (who is one of the few lady pilots I have come across in all my travels) has carefully seated us in the plane so that the weight distribution is correct as I believe the Mahale airstrip is infamous amongst the pilots in Tanzania....you'll see why in a minute...I've got a seat in the first row behind the pilot which gives me an excellent view of the proceedings...
Our first view of Lake Tanganyika...
Can anybody spot the airstrip yet? Yep, that's it in the top left hand corner of the photo - between a rock & a wet place....
Now you can see why the pilots get so nervous - most of them won't even consider taking any more than 8 passengers + luggage into Mahale at a time otherwise the plane is just too heavy..
Fortunately I've never been a nervous flier!! If I had to choose a pilot in a tricky situation I would always choose one with experience of bush airstrips - these guys (& gals) really know how to fly...
The trick is to come in really steeply so that you don't run out of runway at the end...
And touchdown - well done Liz!!
And there's our next mode of transport at the end of the runway....a dhow...we LOVE dhows...
A quick stop for the necessary formalities to sign into Mahale National Park...
And another necessity....as it is a good hour and a half to our next destination..a flush loo this time...we haven't seen one of those in a while..
And then we're off...Lazaro has all the luggage safely stowed..did you think I was joking about the dhow?
Ice cold drinks from the cooler box and an absolutely delicious lunch - didn't get my act together on the photography front until dessert so you'll just have to take my word for it....skewers of grilled beef as well as vegetable skewers and homemade chips with a guacamole dip - yum, yum. Such a good idea to have everything on skewers on a boat - makes things far more manageable...and then for dessert..fruit skewers...fresh, juicy watermelon. pineapple & the best mango I've ever tasted...
The water is a lovely shade of turquoise, warm as bath water and so clear that you can see all the way to the bottom..
It IS a tough life...
The first glimpse of our home for the next two nights & I think we're going to like it...
I wake up before the official wake up call & managed to catch a spectacular sunrise across the plains in front of the tent...early morning has to be my favourite time of day...
Soon afterwards the tea arrived....in a special monkey proof box as the vervet monkeys can be a bit of nuisance.....thing is I might have trouble figuring it out too...
Nope, not this time....got it...
We've been told that they've packed a picnic breakfast for us and we're looking for a suitable spot next to the river.....just as Philip sees the perfect spot, we see that another camp has nabbed it first - how disappointing as we are all starting to feel a bit peckish now....except that he is pulling our leg & it is actually our breakfast spot....they've set up a lovely bush breakfast for us including a hot breakfast station....eggs & bacon anyone?
With a lovely view and hippo's providing the background music...
A leisurely breakfast ...one of the highlights being the local Tabora honey....which is collected in the wild & is slightly smoky....delicious! I tried to buy some at Tabora Airport but they only had 5 litre vats of the stuff.....good luck in trying to get that through customs...
Katavi National Park has some unusual trees which make it a real contrast to the Serengeti - ilala palms, mahogany and these chestnut trees whose bark turns from grey to white during the dry season..they are beautiful...
Here is a close up of one of the tree trunks in the transformation process..
By 10h00 it is starting to warm up and the tsetse flies are once again becoming an issue so we head back to camp....it is nice to just soak up the ambience and enjoy the camp once in a while. They have a sweet vintage safari style lounge tent with a tea & coffee station so we are happy to chill & chat amongst ourselves.
I love the tent ceiling in the dining tent - a really nice touch that elevates the space into something special....
Captain Chedi surprised us this morning at breakfast by producing a stack of kanga's that he had fetched from the local Maasai village - is the man a prince or what? We took all of them - just so that he didn't have to drive back again to return the unwanted items you understand...
Today is a very sad day as we are going to bid Chedi goodbye....it has truly been a privilege to be able to spend time with him...his patience with the ladies who needed to water every bush on the Serengeti plains & who had a seemingly insatiable desire for shopping was legendary - nothing was too much effort for him. Not to mention his knowledge on a vast array of subjects which made for many interesting discussions. We are so going to miss him...asante sana, Chedi!
It's all too soon and the plane has touched down at Kleins airstrip...
The cargo is off loaded, final goodbye's said & the doors closed....& we are off on the next leg of our journey...
One last look at Nduara Loliondo as we fly overhead and then it is on to Tabora where we will refuel before heading to Katavi National Park - a total flight time of about 3 hours...
It's only once you are viewing the Serengeti from the air that you get a sense of the sheer size of the area that it covers....this is the Grumeti River as we fly over the Western corridor...only one of the many obstacles that the wildebeest have to cross on their annual pilgrimage to the Maasai Mara..
The plane banks and suddenly I see our shadow reflected on the plains below....so small, so insignificant..
We arrive at Sitelike airstrip near the park rangers headquarters & we are met by the vehicle which is going to take us to camp....a view from the bridge going into the park..
It's after this point where trouble begins to rear it's ugly head....it is midday, significantly hotter than Loliondo and the tsetse fly is out in full force.....and we are in an open vehicle!! All of us are being eaten alive and our guide doesn't seem to realise the seriousness of the situation, is not listening to us & insists on stopping for lunch....we have a total sense of humour failure & virtually have to order him to take us straight to camp...no detours! Oh Chedi....
Four VERY grumpy women arrive at Chada Katavi Camp and it takes a while for the ruffled feathers to be smoothed down slightly. We explore the camp...a simple but stylish bush camp...
The tent is in seperate sections, each closed off by zipped doors. There is an awful lot of zipping - 8 zippings (up & down) to get from your front door to the shower (on far RHS) & another 6 zippings if, God forbid, you have forgotten something in the bedroom!! And the zips have to be closed otherwise the tent is inundated with all sorts of flying insects that bite - quite vicious mosquito's for a start...not great when you're using the outdoor bucket shower...
Our bathroom section with the long drop loo....see, they're actually quite civilised..a bit of a throne actually and they shouldn't smell at all..
Our tent has big 'windows' with views out over the plains and a little veranda so you can sit & watch the action.. They don't zip the windows up at night here as it is so much warmer than the Serengeti and every small breeze is welcome....which meant that we were woken up by munching sounds & had a birds eye view of the elephant herd that passed through camp on our first night...in fact, one of the elephants passed right in front of our tent (just short of the guy ropes), stopped & looked at us, then calmly carried on about its business. I had to go & check to see if Debs still had a pulse after that...very special indeed!!
Just as you are starting to feel right at home and have made new friends it's time to say kwaheri (tl: Swahili for goodbye)....
We're heading towards the central Serengeti when we come across a few stray wildebeest...clearly the rest of the herds have left them behind or they've elected to stay...apparently the migration has skipped the Western corridor this year and they are making their way straight up to the Maasai Mara....that is until it started raining in the south again....maybe they'll turn back....who knows....
Another picnic lunch on the plains - Edward, the chef from SSC has really spoilt us...
It's round about this time that I notice the reappearance of an old foe - the dreaded tsetse fly!! There hasn't been a case of sleeping sickness diagnosed in Tanzania for at least twenty years but this is not my primary concern.....if you ever need to know if you have a single tsetse fly around all you need do is call on me....I'm a magnet for the little suckers!! Not only is their bite extremely painful - if you've ever been bitten by a horse fly you'll know what I'm talking about - but a small percentage of people are HIGHLY allergic to said bites and swell up alarmingly....yep, I'm in that lucky group. I did take a photo of my cankles (an anatomical term for when there is no discernable difference between one's calf & ankle) but can't bear to show it to you - this is not a medical blog after all & you might have just had a meal...
Moving on swiftly (with the windows shut for good measure..) we make our way up through the Tagora Plains to Kleins gate where we sign in to the Loliondo Conservancy. The landscape has changed from flat plains to beautiful hills dotted with small trees...
A short drive up & over the mountain & suddenly we come to Nduara Loliondo, a dramatic camp reflecting nomadic cultures & consisting of six Mongolian styled yurts that have been given an African makeover....never seen anything like it before....fantastic....what do you think?
First we have the main yurts - one lounge area & the other a dining area..
All through our travels in Tanzania these napkin birds have caught my eye but the ones at NL are particularly fine specimens....I dismantled one so now I can reproduce them for my next dinner party too...
Next we are shown the 'bedroom' yurts..which come complete with Maasai askari (tl: Swahili for guard) at night...
The interiors are gorgeous....I'm now seriously in love with the kanga....
In the bathroom, as it has been since we've been on safari, we have long drop toilets & bucket showers..
As in the other camps, all paths seem to lead back to the sundowner spot....nothing wrong with that!!